Lamole is a forgotten corner of Chianti, situated high above Panzano. A few parcels of old Sangiovese, some alberello (bush-trained) as they always were in Lamole, have survived the replanting decimation of the early 1970s because they were so far away from the heart of Chianti. It is from these old vines, planted in the 1920s, that Fontodi’s Giovanni Manetti took cuttings in order to propagate his own clones and replant his vineyards at Fontodi. It is partly from these clones that Fontodi’s quality and intensity is derived.
Giovanni long harboured the dream of making a wine from Lamole, as he regards it as one of the most distinctive zones in Chianti. The sandy soils and high altitude (620 metres above sea level) with its cool nights and extended growing season, enhance the aromatics, creating wines that are both scented and elegant. He convinced a cousin to work with him on seven hectares of vineyard at a property called Filetta. Together they restored the vineyard to health, and by 2014 were ready to pick their first grapes.
The wine has turned out to be a beguiling charmer. Because the wines are lighter, Giovanni decided to age them in large oak, in contrast to the barriques he uses at Fontodi. Made solely from Sangiovese, it has a lovely colour, with Pinot Noir-like clarity in both the glass and on the nose. It has a lifted, dark cherry fragrance yielding to intense yet elegant fruit on the palate, all nicely supported by fine, grainy tannins.
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