About 35 years ago, Etienne (“Henri”) Bourgeois became the first Sancerre winemaker in recorded history to make and bottle a Sancerre raised entirely in new French oak. Today, the family has tweaked the formula, using a mixture of new, one year, and two year-old wood to tame the intensely ripe fruit from a flinty vineyard in Saint-Satur. They don’t make much (about 700 cases) and it’s so tempting already that you’ll be hard pressed not to drink every bottle you can afford. But this improves with time, so don’t be afraid to enjoy through 2030 and beyond.
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