H&H Madeira Malvasia 20y

Known variously as Malvasia, Malvazia and Malmsey, Malvasia is historically the most celebrated of the classic grapes varieties on the island: the sweetest and most unctuous of madeiras—the stuff of legends, literature and song. Yet there are at least two, genetically distinct Malvasia now planted on the island: Malvasia Cândida and Malvasia Branca de São Jorge. Thought to have first been planted in the fifteenth century, the former is notoriously difficult to grow and now quite limited in acreage. Malvasia Branca de São Jorge was first planted during the late-1960s and early 70s; it dominates all Malvasia bottlings since that time and accounts for the large majority of Malvasia’s 37 ha currently planted on the island. In its youth, Malvasia is lighter-hued than Boal, but with elevage it darkens considerably, resulting in wines that are full-bodied and opulent, rich with flavors of toffee, molasses, caramel, coffee, quince and spice cake, yet (like all madeiras) never cloying.

It might be said that the history of Henriques & Henriques is the history of Madeira itself. Legend has it that Infante Dom Henriques planted the island’s first vines in 1425. These vines gave fruit to one of the “first families of Madeira” and in the process sunk deep roots which Henriques’ descendants and successors continue to draw upon in guiding H&H today.